Sunday, 22 August 2010

Kilmartin in the summer, part 1.

Kilmartin, on the Scottish West Coast, is home to ancient standing stones, burial cairnes, Scottish kings of yore, thousands of species of plants and animals, and also to Chris Carr, a talented fanfic writer and artist.

Jenni Debbage, another talented fanfic writer, and I were invited to stay for a week with her (just this past week) and I jumped at the chance. A mini FOLC fest, right enough, though with a less emphasis on LnC. I drove through Dundee to pick Jenni up last Saturday and we made our way across the highlands from the east coast to the west coast, stopping by a loch for Jenni to have tea and me to stretch my legs.

By the time we reached Chris's, it was fairly late and we just basically chilled out. They were so sweet to wait with me till it was time for sunset and we could sit down to dinner. I don't think they understood how much I appreciated their actions for they didn't have to do that. Because of the long drive, Jenni and I were tired and slept early.

By the next morning, the sun was shining and the day began gloriously. You cannot appreciate how fresh the air is out there unless you're from the city. So, with a gloriously sunny day, fresh air, and an art event in Argyll (http://www.artmapargyll.com/index.html) that day, we went to immerse ourselves in art. The first to be visited was Fraser MacIver (http://www.frasermaciver.com/), a real character. He lives along the Crinan Canal in a wagon, without all the creature comforts we take for granted. While we were there, I was fascinated by this painting he had of different planets. I really wished I had the money but for a hundred quid, it was out of my price range. Anyway, he showed us how he printed some of the smaller prints.

By the time we finished at his place, we walked back to Crinan Hotel where Chris parked the car. After Chris and Jenni had lunch, we checked out two more artists who were showing in the hotel. From there, we went up to visit another artist who was showing near Tayvallich. What was great was that his hosts were artists themselves and the wife's work is mainly in posters for Shakespear's plays. Impressive collection and Jenni fell in love with a Richard III poster which included a sweet horse and a fallen crown in black and white with a splash of red for the rubies.

Our last stop of the day was at Kilmichael Glassary where Louise Oppenheimer a weaver was showing her work and sharing her workshop space with Melanie Chmielewska, a scuplture. Both of them really impressed me with their works and patience. Louise does not use any loom but painstakingly weave the threads together from a frame. Melanie whose sculptures take my breath away works with stone and uses the simplest tools of chisel and hammer to create sculptures which felt soft and alive. I have a feeling that Chris will one day commission a work from her. The first day ended with a lovely dinner and cakes that Jenni brought.

The next day turned out to be opposite of Sunday, with overcast skies and frequent showers. Since Chris needed to visit the doctor in the hospital, we decided to go into Lochgilphead and visit a few more artists while waiting for her appointment. I was impressed with the glass work of Kirsty Brady. Then, while waiting for Chris, I took a stroll into the woodlands near the hospital and found some interesting stuff to photograph. I think one of the reasons why I enjoyed this visit is the great combination of walks and photography.

Tuesday was again another beautiful day though it started out with a bit of rain. Chris and Jenni decided to take me to see the gardens of Arduaine and Ardmaddy that day. Arduaine Garden (http://www.arduaine-garden.org.uk/) is spectacular; artfully wild, which I think was what they were aiming for. We met the head gardener on our way in and had a pleasant chat with him. Had some lovely photographs of various flowers and plants as well as scenic photographs of the west coast isles from various viewpoints. I really hope that they manage to save this lovely garden from closing. Ardmaddy Garden is definitely different from Arduaine. Ardmaddy is part of a castle and has formal and woodland gardens. However, even its woodland garden is not as rugged as Arduaine.

Wednesday, we stuck closer to Kilmartin, choosing to go see what the beavers, reintroduced back into the Knapdale forest last year, have been up to. Chris told us that they had their first young, born in the wild earlier this year and have already been damming up part of the forest. With Isabel, Chris's neighbour joining us, we headed out to the forest to see some of their handywork. While we didn't get to see the beavers themselves, their handywork is pretty impressive. They had gnawed through more trees than I expected, and the area was thoroughly flooded by the dam they built. The water was pretty deep at some places. I wonder if the partially submerged trees would ultimately die.

After that, we walked up to Bellanoch viewpoint. The walk was definitely worth it just for the breathtaking view of Loch Crinan and the River Add Estuary. And on this beautiful Wednesday, we were blessed with clear blue sky that allowed us to see the Isle of Mull. There is a sense of peace as the four of us sat down on the benches and gazed at the meandering river. If ever I wished I was a painter, this was it. No wonder Fraser painted it and Isabel is working on a drawing of it. The landscape inspires people to reach their innermost souls for that creative instinct. The photos I took can't do it justice.

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